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one or two bobbins are just not enough!
If you have been having problems with smooth feeding of
the yarn to the needles, a properly wound wooden
bobbin* is (IMHO) the best alternative to buying an
electric cone winder and cardboard cones. AND it was
the authentic method in use during the earlier time that the
sock machines were sold.
So I have contracted with a woodturning friend to make
new ones! The latest batch is made from cherry, walnut,
and two kinds of mahogany. The bases are made from
cherry. At right are sample bobbins. Aren't they pretty?!?
There are two types of bobbins: One type has holes
drilled to fit the common winders of most machines
(approximately 3/8 inch), and the other is for Gearharts
and others with holes of approximately 3/16 inch.
Please ask any questions you may have or order through
the 'Contact Me' page, and I will get back to you with the
total price. The bobbins I send you will be a random
selection of the woods used, and the next batch of woods
may be totally different. As with everything else, prices
will probably increase with each new batch.
*Scroll down the page for instructions on winding a
bobbin.
If you have been having problems with smooth feeding of
the yarn to the needles, a properly wound wooden
bobbin* is (IMHO) the best alternative to buying an
electric cone winder and cardboard cones. AND it was
the authentic method in use during the earlier time that the
sock machines were sold.
So I have contracted with a woodturning friend to make
new ones! The latest batch is made from cherry, walnut,
and two kinds of mahogany. The bases are made from
cherry. At right are sample bobbins. Aren't they pretty?!?
There are two types of bobbins: One type has holes
drilled to fit the common winders of most machines
(approximately 3/8 inch), and the other is for Gearharts
and others with holes of approximately 3/16 inch.
Please ask any questions you may have or order through
the 'Contact Me' page, and I will get back to you with the
total price. The bobbins I send you will be a random
selection of the woods used, and the next batch of woods
may be totally different. As with everything else, prices
will probably increase with each new batch.
*Scroll down the page for instructions on winding a
bobbin.
| ________________________ FOR SALE Contact me for availability. |
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| Wooden Bobbins |
| Current Prices for Bobbins (as of 07/2008) |
One bobbin $ 14.00 + shipping
Order four or more at $13.00 each, for a $1.00 saving per bobbin
Shipping within the US will be USPS Priority, and will be calculated according to your location
(domestic or foreign). There are no shipping/handling fees.
Order four or more at $13.00 each, for a $1.00 saving per bobbin
Shipping within the US will be USPS Priority, and will be calculated according to your location
(domestic or foreign). There are no shipping/handling fees.
The two photos below are of a typical antique
winder that came with many of the old machines.
winder that came with many of the old machines.
The photos below are of a Gearhart winder. Note
the smaller spindle.
the smaller spindle.
| Example of a properly wound wooden bobbin. |
convenient for you to wind the yarn. I like mine on the right side with the spindle facing left. That
way I can sit right in front of it, holding the yarn with my left hand and cranking with my right. If your
bobbin tends to slip and fall off, put a strip of rubber shelf liner (one will be included in your bobbin
order) over the spindle of your winder to hold it in place. Push the bobbin over the spindle. Start
winding, keeping a bit of tension on the yarn. Two important things: (1) keep winding most of the
yarn toward the base of the bobbin*; and (2) make sure you have at least 2 inches of bobbin
showing above the top of your wound yarn**. Once you have your "a ha!" about it, it's really easy
and not as complicated as it might sound. If you have access to any sock machine people in your
area, ask them to show you how to do it (if they use their winders).
*You should wind up with a conical shape in your wound yarn. You want to avoid a bulge in the
good bit at the bottom, and go up and back several times, then wind a good bit at the bottom, etc.
**If you let your yarn wind too far up, it could come off at the top and become a real mess. You
would probably have to cut your yarn and wind the yarn from your bobbin into a ball and start all
over. You also want to make sure that when your yarn is winding toward the top limit (you might
want to mark it on one of your bobbins until you get used to it), you don't allow your tension to relax
any.
way I can sit right in front of it, holding the yarn with my left hand and cranking with my right. If your
bobbin tends to slip and fall off, put a strip of rubber shelf liner (one will be included in your bobbin
order) over the spindle of your winder to hold it in place. Push the bobbin over the spindle. Start
winding, keeping a bit of tension on the yarn. Two important things: (1) keep winding most of the
yarn toward the base of the bobbin*; and (2) make sure you have at least 2 inches of bobbin
showing above the top of your wound yarn**. Once you have your "a ha!" about it, it's really easy
and not as complicated as it might sound. If you have access to any sock machine people in your
area, ask them to show you how to do it (if they use their winders).
*You should wind up with a conical shape in your wound yarn. You want to avoid a bulge in the
good bit at the bottom, and go up and back several times, then wind a good bit at the bottom, etc.
**If you let your yarn wind too far up, it could come off at the top and become a real mess. You
would probably have to cut your yarn and wind the yarn from your bobbin into a ball and start all
over. You also want to make sure that when your yarn is winding toward the top limit (you might
want to mark it on one of your bobbins until you get used to it), you don't allow your tension to relax
any.